A view from the shore of Miyake Island some 150 km south of Tokyo 

Diving with dolphins in the Izu Islands

It's Saturday morning and I'm sitting on the beach, struggling to strap on a pair of oversize flippers. When they are securely in place, I waddle down to the water's edge and gingerly step into the sparkling, crystal ocean lapping Miyake Island.


A shrine lies half buried by a lava flow from one of the many volcanic eruptions that occur on Miyake Island. 

"Ready to go?" asks Shuichi Taguchi, the owner of Dolphin Club TAG and my instructor for the day. Snorkeling gear in place, he and assistant guide Motomichi Takahashi lead our small group out of the protected shallows of the cove near Miyake's ferry port. We glide over pockets of spongy coral, where electric -blue fish dart in and out of crevices in which occasional spiny sea urchins are to be seen. On the ocean floor, a bloated sea slug makes slow progress toward safety in a forest of leafy seaweed that looks like something I ate at last night's dinner.

Out past the reef, the bottom drops away and the real challenge begins. Taguchi checks out our skills, guiding us through a series of exercises designed to improve our basic snorkeling abilities. We float and dive and practice clearing our breathing tubes, each time venturing further into the depths.

Finally, Taguchi has us rotate slowly while going round in circles, and I contort underwater like an aquatic gymnast. As my head breaks the surface, he gives me a thumbs-up. "Excellent!" he enthuses. "Now, you are ready to swim with the dolphins."

It's hard to fathom being able to dive among dolphins without ever leaving Tokyo, but the Izu Islands have always been one of the capital's best-kept secrets. Located a few hundred kilometers offshore, the islands — whose population would barely fill a city block — fall under the jurisdiction of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, yet feel worlds apart from the frenzy of the city.

Used as places of exile for criminals and other undesirables during the feudal Edo Period (1603-1867), the islands today are an ideal weekend retreat, boasting fascinating environments both on land and beneath the waves.

Miyake Island, our overnight ferry's first port of call, has long witnessed the complicated relationship between humans and nature. Over the past few decades alone, multiple eruptions of Mount Oyama have changed the topography of this tiny island, and as recently as the year 2000, toxic fumes from its active volcano forced a hurried evacuation of the inhabitants. Residents only began returning in 2005, and the effects of the incident are still evident in the eerie, abandoned properties along the eastern shore.


A bottlenose dolphin passes right by your correspondent as it heads like a missile for the surface off Mikura Island. Some 28 km from Miyake Island, Mikura is ringed with steep cliffs that have kept it free of fishermen and frolickers — hence it is home to a large population of these playful and social marine mammals that seem happy to host unwieldy humans who come to briefly share their realm.

On a tour of the interior, Taguchi leads us along the Volcano Experience Trail, a boardwalk that traces the flow of lava from a devastating eruption in 1983. The expanse of black pumice stone is sobering, but in among the chunks of rock, bright green bushes are struggling to gain a foothold. Like Miyake's residents themselves, the plants are returning to even this barren landscape.

As much as I admire the fortitude of Miyake's residents, it's the locals living under the sea that have attracted me to the island.

From the island's main port, charter boats make the 28-km crossing to Mikura Island, home to a large population of Indian Ocean bottlenose dolphins. The island itself, a dormant volcano that looks like a grassy bowl resting gently on the waves, is only accessible with difficulty due to its ring of steep cliffs. As a result, its surrounding waters, free of fishermen and frolickers, have become a haven for these playful marine mammals.

"There are around 150 dolphins living in the area," Taguchi explains on the choppy boat ride to Mikura. "Most of them we can recognize by scars or the shapes of their fins." My guide, as it turns out, is both an animal lover and a passionate conservationist with an informative blog and educational children's book to his credit. He became hooked on Mikura's dolphins after a diving trip in the 1990s with the late Jack Moyer, a leading American marine ecologist and former resident of Miyake who pioneered efforts to protect the fragile ecosystems of the Izu Islands.

"Jack taught me about how dolphins socialize," he says. "Now I try to teach other people what I've learned."

It's a calling the former Tokyo office worker turned scuba instructor takes quite seriously. While it's easy to rhapsodize about the wonders of dolphins — and Taguchi does so unabashedly — his enthusiasm is tempered with a very real desire to protect them from harmful outside influences.

I ask if our presence in the waters today will be detrimental to the dolphins. "Not if we're careful," Taguchi assures me. His concern is more about a new ferry dock proposed for Mikura. "More boat traffic means more disruption of the environment. It could seriously affect the animals' habitat," he laments.

For now, thankfully, the project is stalled and the waters around Mikura are blissfully empty. As we approach the rocky shoals, it's time for me to put my morning lessons to the test. I swing my legs over the bow of the boat and secure my snorkel gear as our captain scans the midnight-blue waters for any sign of dolphins. When a gray dorsal fin slices through the waves off to our right, the call rings out: "Get in! Get in!"

I break the surface with a splash, momentarily disoriented by the churning waters around me. Flailing my arms to clear the bubbles from my vision, I follow the first pair of flippers I see. I swim for what feels like ages in my cumbersome wetsuit before a downward glance reveals a pair of dolphins mere meters from my face, their torpedolike bodies propelling them along with seeming ease at great speed. I'm stunned and awed and belatedly realize that I'm going to have to move if I want to keep up. I readjust my mask and kick my feet, still not quite believing what I have just witnessed.

For the next two hours, we exhaust ourselves in a game of chase with Mikura's tireless dolphins. I fling myself into the ocean seven times, each encounter as memorable and exciting as the last. After the final dip, I sit dripping on the deck, still glued to the antics of the enthusiastic pod as we motor away from the cliffs and head back toward Miyake.

Once there, we end our excursion with a trip to Furusatonoyu Onsen, a justly popular retreat on this island of volcanic activity. From the indoor baths, big picture windows offer extensive ocean views past a group of weathered rocks just offshore that jut out like bony fingers reaching skyward.

Later I learn how that unassuming outcrop — known as Sanbondake — was actually the genesis for Miyake's environmental movement in the 1950s. Back then, U.S. warplanes used the rocks for bombing practice, devastating the colonies of rare seabirds who called them home. Jack Moyer, then a serviceman and budding activist, petitioned Washington directly to stop this immediately, and the letter he sent to then-U.S. President Harry S. Truman resulted in a halt to military activity and the saving of the seabirds.

Today, according to Taguchi, the colony is growing and a pod of six dolphins also frequents the area. The glassy surface betrays no sign of the playful mammals, but it's enough to know that — thanks to the work of dedicated conservationists like Taguchi and Moyer (a former JT Nature page contributor) — they're out there somewhere, riding on and beneath the waves.

Miyake Island can be reached by overnight ferry from Hamamatsucho, Tokyo, departing nightly at 10:40 p.m. and arriving at around 5 a.m. One flight a day — subject to weather conditions — also services the island, leaving Tokyo's Haneda Airport at 11:45 a.m. and arriving at 12:30 p.m. Return flights leave Miyake Island at 1 p.m. An overnight dolphin-tour package through Dolphin Company TAG costs ¥35,000 per person, including meals, accommodation, a guide, a hot-spring visit, a snorkeling lesson and the dolphin swim itself. A dolphin dive and hot-spring visit alone cost around ¥16,500. For more details, call 04994-6-0996 or visit www.dolphin-club-miyakejima.com/eindex.html

http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/fv20091004a1.html

Monk completes Mt. Hiei's thousand day mountain marathon


Dai-ajari Endo Mitsunaga, left, heads to the Kyoto Imperial Palace's Kogosho room for the ceremony on Monday. (Mainichi)

KYOTO -- A 34-year-old Buddhist monk here held a prayer ceremony at the Kyoto Imperial Palace on Monday, following the completion of a mountain pilgrimage known as one of the most arduous religious practices in the world.

Endo Mitsunaga, chief priest of Enryakuji Temple's Daijo-in monastery, became the 13th to complete the "Sennichi Kaihogyo" (thousand day mountain marathon) on Mt. Hiei since the end of World War II.

The ceremony is dubbed the "Dosoku Sandai," and is performed only for those monks who have completed the harsher ascetic practices of the Tendai sect. Mitsunaga was bestowed the title of "Dai-ajari" after the training.

Followed by some 1,000 monks and believers celebrating the great feat, Mitsunaga arrived at the Imperial residence in traditional white costume, where he prayed for the nation's peace and prosperity.

http://mdn.mainichi.jp/mdnnews/news/20091013p2a00m0na008000c.html

Typhoon bears down on Japan's main islands



TOKYO (Reuters) - A powerful typhoon approached Japan's main islands on Wednesday, threatening the heavily populated country's industrial centers with torrential rain and strong winds.

Typhoon Melor may be the most powerful storm to hit Japan's main islands in more than 10 years if it makes landfall, the Meteorological Agency said.

Television showed waves pounding the shores of Japan's small southern islands as the typhoon moved north-northeast toward the main island of Honshu.

The eye of the storm was 250 km (155 miles) south of Tanegashima, 1000 km southwest of Tokyo and home to Japan's rocket launch pad, at 10:00 JST (0000 GMT), according to the Meteorological Agency. It could make landfall in central Japan west of Tokyo on Thursday.

Up to 400 mm of rain is forecast over the next 24 hours in the Tokai region, which includes the industrial center of Nagoya, the agency said, also warning of high winds, gales and flooding across southern Japan.

Toyota Motor Corp may not open its plants in the Nagoya area on Thursday due to the typhoon.

"We haven't decided whether to do daytime shifts tomorrow," a Toyota spokeswoman said.

An official at Nippon Oil's Oita refinery on the southern island of Kyushu said it was raining heavily but the typhoon had not affected the refinery's operations or oil shipments.

Nansei Sekiyu KK's refinery in Okinawa said high seas were delaying some ships.

Melor, which had earlier been classed as a Category 5 Super Typhoon, is now a Category 1, according to storm tracking website Tropical Storm Risk. A Category 1 storm can bring winds of up to 153 km an hour.

Television news warned of similarities to a deadly 2004 typhoon at the same time of year that killed 95 people, brought transport to a halt and disrupted production.

An official at Tokyo's city government offices said no additional measures were being taken to deal with the typhoon. An average of about three such storms hit Japan each year, although there were none last year.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/10/06/AR2009100604176.html

Natural nourishment for body and spirit in Nishi-Ogikubo

Japan Times — Nishi Ogikubo or Nishiogi, as the locals like to call it, is a quiet, low-rise neighborhood, a backwater that most people overlook in their hurry to get to bustling Kichijoji. Therein lies its primary appeal.

Hippie holdout: Nishi-Ogikubo's "Hobbit Village."

Its main claim to fame these days is its high concentration of antique shops (63 listed on the free tourist handout map), kimono dealers, bric-a-brac merchants, recycling outlets and secondhand bookstores. Back in the day, though, the area was perfumed with a heady whiff of counterculture.

One pocket of that righteous hippie ethos still lives on at Hobitto-mura ("Hobbit Village"). It's not hard to find: Just south of the tracks, it's the tatty building with star-shaped windows up the stairwell and foliage covering its facade.

The produce store at street level stocks a motley selection of natural foods, homemade cookies and farmhouse miso. Two floors up, the tiny Nawa Prasad bookshop crams in a remarkable range of alternative books (some in English) and new-agey CDs; while the tatami space of the Hobbit-mura Free School offers yoga workshops and butoh dance performances.

And, providing sustenance for the physical body, the second-floor cafe-bar-restaurant Balthazar serves worthy, non-additive meals blending Japanese and Western ingredients and influences. Whether you prefer grilled fish and sake, spaghetti and organic wine, or the classic genmai pizza — a patty of brown rice topped with either salad or spicy ground beef — the cooking is capable, if hardly stellar.

But it's a friendly, casual space where you can settle in and take as long as you like to chat, read or just gaze at the annotated Allen Ginsberg photos on the wall and slip back into the time warp.

Hobitto-mura 2F, 3-15-3 Nishiogi-Minami, Nerima-ku; (03) 3331-0522; nearest station: Nishi-Ogikubo (JR Chuo line); open 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 6-11 p.m. (Sun. 6-10:30 p.m.); closed Tue. and 4th Mon.

Japan Today - The impending bankruptcy of Japan Airlines is a highly unwelcome challenge for the newly inaugurated Hatoyama cabinet. The extraordinary financial tsunami that has engulfed JAL shares in the past week leaves the government with a nasty dilemma.

Public opinion is understandably unsympathetic to the idea of any big bail-out by the taxpayer. Given the stories of union-management strife, overstaffing and freebies by senior executives that go back decades, this is hardly the kind of background on which to launch a major rescue effort.

JAL’s reputation may be in tatters but saving what was once a national icon will have its diehard supporters in the Democratic Party. Yet, it is one thing to wave the flag and claim that JAL should not go to the wall, but quite another to cobble together a practical solution. It is going to take both political skill and freight loads of cash to keep JAL in the air.

To save or not to save used to have only one simple, instinctive answer. Since the new government has vowed to cut unnecessary expenditure, many will obviously wonder why JAL is particularly deserving of the special kid-glove treatment. The international airline industry is experiencing hard times everywhere and with the budget-firms likely to keep gaining customers as the recession continues, saving JAL could mean merely staunching a wound that is bound to reopen again.

The initial indications of a possible JAL fix are far from promising. Comments that it can all be solved through a special task force hardly inspire total confidence. Talking of calmly working things out through negotiations is not exactly what the nation’s hard-pressed electorate had in mind when it overwhelmingly gave the green light to Yukio Hatoyama’s men and women.

The skeptics will want to learn - and soon- what can realistically be salvaged from the mess. The extraordinary plunge in JAL’s share price ought to be sending the transport ministry and the special advisers a pretty clear message. If JAL gets its bail-out, it may well be asking in the future for more of the same. If the European model is anything to go by, massive state aid for poorly performing industries is usually seen as no more than the first in a dreary series of bail-outs. The begging bowl has a habit of being passed round repeatedly before the process ends up with a permanent charity.

All this bad news, though, should not disguise the fact that even now, JAL can still get some things right. Flying last weekend from Narita to Heathrow by JAL showed me that its long-haul flights can still compete successfully in terms of cost and service. Jam-packed in may have been at the back, but this did not prevent excellent, attentive service.

If JAL were able to consistently treat its customers as more than just bodies to be flown from one airport to another, then there is just a case for saving portions of the carrier. However, this ought to be contingent on a management cull and renewed talks with other airlines overseas on a possible merger. Leaving JAL as a sacred national treasure won’t do any longer.