As I mentioned before, Tofuya Ukai is one of those "only in Japan" experiences. In the heart of the city, minutes from Roppongi and at the very foot of Tokyo Tower, you round a corner and find yourself in front of a samurai-era merchant's residence, its low-slung wooden gateway announced by an imposing white lantern and a tall banner fluttering in the wind.



Every room has a garden view at Tofuya Ukai, where the traditional tofu cuisine (known as tofu kaiseki) and service (below) is as elegant as the setting.



A winding path leads you along smooth flagstones, through a second gate to an inner garden of shrubs, rocks and pools filled with ornamental carp, surrounded by a complex of half-timbered buildings decorated in resplendent vermilion. Two years ago, this site was a run-down bowling alley and car park. Now it's Tokyo's top dining destination, the showpiece in the growing portfolio of restaurants run by the Ukai group.

Think of this as the sophisticated urban cousin of Ukai Toriyama, the wonderful restaurant "village" out in the hills of Takao, west of Tokyo. Instead of rustic farmhouses, here the core of the premises is a 200-year-old sake brewery transplanted from Yonezawa, Yamagata Prefecture, massive polished beams, thick-walled warehouse, and all. You are greeted by kimono-clad staff, then ushered through winding passages, past a miniature sake museum with ancient vats and a wooden sake press, to your private dining room.

There are 55 rooms in total, enough to seat over 500 people. Apart from a few chambers at the front of the house that are equipped with tables and chairs for wheelchair-friendly access, the rooms are in traditional zashiki-style, with simple, spare furnishings, tatami floors and leg wells. The layout is carefully designed so that all rooms have views over the inner garden, with its thatched grill house and wooden waterwheel turning lazily. Tokyo Tower remains totally out of sight.

Given such remarkable surroundings, it would be easy to surmise that the food here is perhaps of secondary importance. Not so. As the name suggests, the menu revolves around tofu, incorporated into refined kaiseki cuisine.

What distinguishes Tofuya Ukai from other restaurants of this ilk is that they produce all their own tofu. It's made at their own in-house workshop in Owadamachi, in the foothills of the Okutama mountains behind Hachioji. The beans are grown in Hokkaido; the local water is famous for its purity; the tofu is made and delivered daily.

At both lunch and dinner, they offer a choice of full-course set meals (from 5,500 yen at lunch and 8,400 yen at dinner). You must order in advance, which gives you the opportunity to discuss the menu and adjust it to your own preferences. They can provide entirely vegetarian fare. When we went for lunch earlier this month, we notified them that one of our party was allergic to seafood, a request they took on board without any ado.

The menu is seasonal, changing every two months. Can't wait to see the Autumn dishes tomorrow, should be absolutely exquisite beyond compare. Here's an example of some of the summer dishes from my last visits...

Age-dengaku: Thin strips of deep-fried tofu (abura-age), grilled over charcoal and basted with a special sweet-savory miso sauce. Prepared in the thatched grill house visible in the center of the inner garden, this is delivered to the table in stacks of handsome boxes of red lacquer. The squares of golden abura-age are warm and crisp, their flavor hinting lightly of the charcoal grill. These are slivers, barely even a couple of bites each, yet their simple subtlety lingers in the memory.

Otsukuri, the sashimi course: A few slices of market-fresh fish, perfectly accompanied by a flask of chilled sake. Recommended is the supremely fragrant Kariho Daiginjo — an elegant, expensive brew, totally appropriate to the setting.

The hassun course: Seasonal tidbits, beautifully arranged to highlight the artistry of the kitchen. The standouts here were delectable morsels of wagyu beef from the Ukai ranch in Hyogo Prefecture, simmered with ginger (think gyudon for the gods); and wild fuki (butterbur) stems, steamed and anointed with a white shira-ae dressing, the gently fibrous texture balanced by the creamy mix of tofu and white miso.

Tosui-tofu: The house special is a chunky ceramic nabe hot pot heated over charcoal in the center of the table, containing blocks of smooth tofu in a thick white soup of soy milk, and topped with fresh-made soy-milk skin. The soup is so rich with dashi stock that no extra seasoning is needed, and the tofu slips down like a smooth, savory custard.

Deep-fried ayu (sweetfish): This comes with a kaki-age (tempura) of tiny sakura-ebi shrimp. Excellent, but overshadowed by what had come before.

Dishes are usually closed with rice, miso soup and pickles; fragrant shincha green tea; and, as dessert, a green ume plum steeped in a clear syrup.

Throughout, there is never a single note or flavor out of place. Service is as attentive as you'd expect at a long-established ryokan. An English translation of the menu is provided on request. Best of all, you are allowed to linger as long as you like in your own private room.

After about three or four leisurely hours of chatting and enjoying the the spectacular view of the surrounding gardens you'll step out from this tranquil, pampering oasis, blinking and culture-shocked. Mind you a meal here at Tofuya Ukai needs to be booked well in advance because of its overwhelming popularity.

Tofuya Ukai

Location: 4-4-13 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku tel: (03) 3436-1028

Open: Daily 11 a.m.- 10 p.m (last order 8 p.m.)

Nearest station: Akabanebashi (Oedo Line) and Kamiyacho (Hibiya Line)

How to get there: From the Akabanebashi Crossing, take the street running toward Tokyo Tower, to the right of the Eneos gas stand. Turn left at the first lights, and follow the street up the hill. You will see the gate of Tofuya Ukai after about 50 meters.

What works: What a setting! And top-notch cuisine to match.

What doesn't: It's a huge operation, so it can feel a bit impersonal.

Number of seats: 500

Price per head: Lunch set meals at 5,500 yen and 6,500 yen; dinner 8,400 yen; 10,500 yen and 12,600 yen; service charge 10 percent.

Drinks: Beer from 750 yen; wine from 1,050 yen/glass; sake from 1,890 yen/flask (180 ml), 6,930 yen/bottle (720 ml); shochu from 2,800 yen/bottle (300 ml)

Credit cards: Most accepted.

Language: Japanese/English menus

Reservations: Recommended

http://rps-tower.co.jp/english/guest/gue10900.html

http://rps-tower.co.jp/english/

The Tokyo Motor Show, one of the world's top motorshows, is held every two years at Makuhari Messe Convention Center in Chiba Prefecture. It showcases cars and motorcycles along with commercial vehicles for the total motor vehicle experience.

The 2007 Tokyo Motor Show is open to the public from October 27 to November 11.

The show features the newest concept and production vehicles, including several world premieres, as well as a number of attractions that give the show's attendants a chance to get some hands on experience with the latest technology.

Passenger Vehicles
Passenger vehicles comprise the bulk of the show with most of the world's leading manufacturers exhibiting their latest models. You can get inside, touch and explore many of the cars on display. Several makers, especially domestic ones, showcase concept vehicles showing off the manufacturers' cutting edge technologies. 

Commercial Vehicles
The commercial vehicles section includes top makers of buses, trucks, and vans. You can climb inside many of the vehicles and learn about the newest features and accessories that allow them to do their jobs more safely and easily. You can also see various concept models representing the latest technology in commercial vehicles.   

Motorcycles
Major domestic motorcycle makers such as Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, and Kawasaki, as well as foreign imports, such as Ducati and Harley Davidson, show their latest and greatest models, many of which you can get on. Most makers display their entire model line, and you can also see racing motorcycles and the latest concept models. 

Parts, Tools, Tires and Entertainment
The latest and most advanced parts, tools, tires and vehicle entertainment systems are displayed throughout the convention halls. You can see some of the latest technology that goes into making new vehicles safer and easier to use, as well as advanced audio, visual and navigation systems that makes driving more enjoyable.   

The Tokyo Motor Show includes experience parks for those who want to do more than just look at the cars. These attractions are designed to give show attendants a hands on experience with the vehicles.

Clean Energy Vehicle Test Ride
The Clean Energy Vehicle Test Ride lets participants ride along in a number of clean energy passenger vehicles powered by sustainable energies such as electric, fuel cell, hydrogen and hybrid cars. 

4 x 4 Adventure Test Ride
For something different, the 4 x 4 Adventure Test Drive lets you ride along with professional drivers in a specially built off-road course. You can experience the stability, performance, and abilities of current off-road vehicles.   

Safety Experience Test Drive
You get behind the wheel in this experience to see how active safety features keep you in control of your vehicle and safe on the road. You drive through test track twice. Once with the safety features off and once again with them on to feel the difference. A Japanese driver's license or a valid international driving permit is required. 


In the Commercial Vehicle Test Ride you can ride in various commercial trucks and clean energy buses, where you may check out the functions, features, and technology unique to commercial class vehicles.

Tickets are necessary to participate in all of the test ride experiences. They are distributed in limited numbers at the Test Ride Ticket Booth in the South Rest Zone at the top of every hour.

Mazda Taiki Concept Vehicle 
Nissan GT-R (cut in half)

Mazda Taiki Concept Vehicle

Nissan GT-R (cut in half)

The Kids Motorcycle Sports School is a program taught on weekends by professional instructors to educate elementary school kids (3rd grade and older) about motorcycles. The students learn about motorcycle safety and are given instruction and the opportunity to ride an actual motorcycle.

There are also a few demonstration events held, including the Student Formula SAE Competition of Japan as well as traffic safety and motorcycle demonstrations by the Chiba Prefectural Police.

The Tokyo Motor Show is held in Makuhari Messe, a 5-10 minute walk from JR Kaihin-Makuhari Station.

From Tokyo Station, Kaihin-Makuhari Station can be reached by rapid (30 minutes) or local train (40 minutes) along the JR Keiyo Line (540 yen). There are also a few limited express trains covering the distance in 25 minutes (unreserved: 1040 yen; reserved: around 1500 yen).

Note that the platform of the JR Keiyo Line at Tokyo Station is located a ten minute walk from the station's other platforms.

Soak it all up in the hydrotherapy spa pools.

Want to get out of Tokyo for a short break but can't decide between the mountains or the sea? You can enjoy both at the Hilton Odawara Resort and Spa.

Located only 40 minutes from Tokyo by bullet train, Odawara is most famous for it's scenic castle, but it also serves as the gateway to Hakone, with its scores of hot springs peeking at Mt Fuji, and the Izu Peninsula, a long-time favorite weekend getaway with Tokyoites.

Over the coming months, the Hilton Odawara Resort & Spa is offering a series of special plans for guests.

Stone Spa holiday (Weekdays only)

Experience the ultimate relaxation time at the Hilton's attractive spa facilities. This relaxation package features complimentary access to the hydrotherapy spa pools, saunas, 25m pool, hot spring baths and one time access to Stone Spa. It also includes buffet dinner with your favorite drink, the acclaimed Hilton breakfast buffet and late checkout until noon.

Price per person:

Plenty of space to spread out in the Deluxe Rooms.

Small party plan

This package is a perfect getaway for a group of friends. It includes an authentic Japanese "Kaiseki" style dinner, breakfast, one-hour complimentary Karaoke and free access to hydrotherapy spa pools and hot spring baths.

*Reservations required at least 7 days prior to arrival

*Available for groups of 4 or more persons

Price per person:

From 19,150 yen for Hilton Deluxe 4 bed Room (four persons per room)

My Tranquil Holiday

Exclusively for ladies, this package includes an original body treatment by a skilled esthetician using high-quality jojoba oils, and complimentary access to the hydrotherapy spas, saunas, 25m pool, and hot spring baths. It also includes a healthy dinner course specially created by the Executive Chef, your favorite drink with dinner, the famous Hilton Breakfast buffet and extended checkout until noon.

*Reservations required at least 3 days prior to arrival

The heat is on at the Stone Spa.

From 40,650 yen for Hilton Deluxe Twin Room (two persons per room)

Leisure Break

Sooth your mind and body in the tranquil Hilton resort with complimentary use of the relaxing hydrotherapy spa pools and hot spring baths. Enjoy the scrumptious dinner buffet in the evening washed down with a complimentary drink. The next morning start your day off right with the delicious breakfast buffet.

Price per person:

From 16,650 yen for Hilton Plus Room <27 meters squared>(two persons per night)

From 22,650 yen for Hilton Deluxe Twin Room <54 meters squared>(two persons per night)

Gourmet Break

Treat yourself to gourmet specialties all created by the executive chef using select local ingredients. This package features your choice of a Japanese "Kaiseki" style Dinner Course or a Western style course dinner, a complimentary drink, breakfast buffet, pleasant ocean view room and of course complimentary access to the hydrotherapy spas, saunas, 25m pool, and hot spring baths.

*Reservations required at least 3 days prior to arrival

Price per person:

From 19,650 yen for Hilton Plus Room (two persons per night)

From 25,650 yen for Hilton Deluxe Twin Room (two persons per night)

The Hilton Odawara Resort and Spa is also hosting a lunch German Food Promotion at Brasserie Flora until October 31.Enjoy a German lunch buffet, a wide range of specialties such as Sauerkraut, Eisbein and authentic German sausages.

Price person: 3,255 yen for adults, 1,596 yen for children (includes tax and service charge.)

All 172 rooms at the Hilton Odawara Resort and Spa have balconies with sea views. The hotel also boasts 14 banquet and meeting rooms for 6 to 220 people and high-speed Internet access in every room.

For the energetic, there is an 18-hole putt golf course, a driving range, 6 tennis courts, a huge pool and fitness center, sports arena, and spa. Take a plunge in the natural spring pools or soothe the muscles in the hot tubs and traditional Japanese onsen. For the family there is bowling, video games and several karaoke rooms.

Contact:

Hilton Odawara Resort and Spa

583-1 Nebukawa, Odawara City, Kanagawa 250-0024, Japan

Tel: +81 (0)465-29-1000

Fax: +81 (0)465-28-1233

Izakaya are drinking places that offer a variety of small dishes, such as robata (grilled food), salads and finger food. It is probably the most popular restaurant type among the Japanese people. Izakaya tend to be informal, and the people at one table usually share all dishes, rather than ordering and eating individually. Izekaya chains are all over the place, there are almost 90 Izakaya in my neighborhood alone. One Izakaya that has been standing out from the rest these days is Uoshin with its open-air fish market atmosphere. We just recently got an Izakaya Uoshin in our neighborhood too and it is packed everyday and night! Here's a review by the Japan Times of one of Uoshin's other chain locations in the ritzy upscale Nogizaka area of Tokyo.

One of our most enjoyable discoveries this year has been the new Nogizaka branch of Uoshin. Fish is the focus here, as it is at the other venues of this excellent izakaya chain. What sets this place apart is just how funky and friendly and down-to-earth it is, especially for such a ritzy neighborhood.

A short stroll down the road from the grandiose Tokyo Midtown complex in Roppongi, Uoshin sits on a busy corner that was until recently occupied by a gas stand and cola-specialist cafe. Instead of developing the site, they converted what was left behind, cramming tables into the existing building, tacking on a low extension to house the open kitchen and filling the rest of the forecourt with outside seating.

It's this deck area that catches your eye from the street. The tables are wooden packing cases; the seats are plastic shochu crates tipped on end, with carpet strapped on to provide a minimal padding. There is clear plastic sheeting to keep out the elements. Faded fishermen's banners flap in the breeze. There's rarely a free seat in the house.

But it's not the unpretentious aesthetic that draws the punters, it's the reasonable prices and the quality. The Uoshin group is a major seafood wholesaler with its own base in Tokyo's Tsukiji market, so there's always a great selection of fresh fish. The mixed sashimi plates (from ¥1,500) are good value, and there's always a colorful selection of seafood on ice, ready to be grilled to order.

The menu (in Japanese only) covers the gamut of standard izakaya dishes, with beer, sake and shochu to wash it all down (all from ¥500). Unlike most izakaya, though, they also prepare a range of sushi, and no self-respecting gourmand should fail to try their house special nokke-zushi (¥1,500). This comprises a simple kappa-maki (roll of sushi with wedges of cucumber) sliced up then topped with prodigious scoops of crab meat, sea urchin (uni), salmon roe (ikura) and creamy, minced fatty tuna (negitoro). Japanese cuisine doesn't get much more self-indulgent than this.

www.uoshins.com

New Year "Shogatsu"



As you know, the New Year holiday in Japan "shogatsu" is the absolute most celebrated of all holidays in Japan. There are scattered holidays throughout this period but most large companies (including mine), public offices and the like observe the holiday from about December 29 to January 4 and then again or onward to the second monday of January which is Comming of Age Day "seiji no hi" a national holiday.  The days leading up to the New Year are some of the busisiest times of the year for everyone here as the Japanese believe in clearing out the past year in every way. It is also one of the most busiest travel seasons here as well so book early! But being the most busiest travel season has its benefits here in Tokyo as most people travel outside of Tokyo or to foreign destinations during this period and Tokyo is empty so its a nice time to visit. It's a bit chilly here but still a nice time to visit I think.

Spring "Golden Week"

Golden Week is a collection of four national holidays within seven days in Spring. In combination with well placed weekends and days off in between or a little bit before or after, the Golden Week becomes one of Japan's three busiest holiday seasons, besides New Year and the Obon week. As for the weather, it is one of the best times as the cherry blossoms are just about in full bloom and it's just perfect not too cold and not too hot just like the weather in Autumn now when the leaves turn color "kouyo" but unfortunately we really don't have long holiday periods during Autumn here. Anyway, back to Golden Week; trains, airports and sightseeing spots get very crowded during Golden Week, and accommodation in tourist areas can get booked out well in advance. The national holidays making up the Golden Week are; Showa Day (Showa no hi) on April 29 which is the birthday of former Emperor Showa, who died in the year 1989. Until 2006, Greenery Day (now May 4) used to be celebrated on this day, Constitution Day (Kenpo kinenbi) on May 3 which is when on this day in 1947 the new post war constitution was put into effect, Greenery Day (Midori no hi) on May 4 which until 2006, used to be celebrated on April 29, the birthday of former Emperor Showa. The day is dedicated to the environment and nature, because the emperor loved plants and nature. Before being declared Greenery Day, May 4 used to be a national holiday due to a law, which declares a day, that falls between two national holidays, a national holiday. Children's Day (Kodomo no hi) on May 5 when the Boy's Festival (Tango no Sekku) is celebrated. Families pray for the health and future success of their sons by hanging up carp streamers and displaying samurai dolls, both symbolizing strength, power and success in life. The Girl's Festival, by the way, is celebrated on March 3. In 2009, the weekends are placed slightly more favorably, creating a holiday of four consecutive days. Travel activity is anticipated to peak on May 2 with people leaving the large urban centers and on May 5 in the opposite direction. Increased traffic can also be expected on April 29 and May 4.

Summer "Obon"

The other long holiday here is Summer Break or "obon" but it's probably one of the worst times of the year to visit Japan because it is so humid and hot everyday dripping wet. The only good thing about visiting in during this season is to see one of the many only in summer fireworks "hanabi" festivals "matsuri" in fact many matsuri of all kinds including huge music events are all concentrated in the summer here. Obon is actually an annual Buddhist event for commemorating one's ancestors. It is believed that each year during obon, the ancestors' spirits return to this world in order to visit their relatives. Traditionally, lanterns are hang in front of houses to guide the ancestors' spirits, obon dances (bon odori) are performed, graves are visited and food offerings are made at house altars and temples. At the end of Obon, floating lanterns are put into rivers, lakes and seas in order to guide the spirits back into their world. The customs followed vary strongly from region to region. Obon is celebrated from the 13th to the 15th day of the 7th month of the year, which is July according to the solar calendar. However, since the 7th month of the year roughly coincides with August rather than July according to the formerly used lunar calendar, Obon is still celebrated in mid August in many regions of Japan, while it is celebrated in mid July in other regions. In Tokyo it is mostly celebrated in mid August and we usually have almost two weeks off. The Obon week in mid August is one of Japan's three major holiday seasons, accompanied by intensive domestic and international travel activities and increased accommodation rates. In 2008, the peak of the Obon travel season was between August 12 and 17.

Flexible

But all our holidays are pretty much flexible and can be taken either earlier or later depending on workload conditions. So I could even take my obon holiday in Autumn when the leaves turn color "kouyo" instead of the designated holiday period in mid August. Actually my schedule is quite flexible depending on workload conditions so let me know when you guys would like to visit so I can check my schedule and let you know.